This post was set to private for my own personal use, but it is good information if used carefully. I am not a doctor. I am not a vet. I am a cheap bastard with a strong background in chemistry. This is for my use alone. Please read carefully, and proceed at your own risk.
Fleas and Ticks
Frontline Plus is used for Flea and Tick Treatment. A few drops are put between the shoulders on the back of your dog.
It contains Fibronil which kills adult fleas and ticks.
It contains (S) Methoprene which attacks flea eggs
There is a separate product for cats. DO NOT use this recipe for cats.
Reapply every 30 days whenever your pet visits an area where fleas and ticks are a possibility.
After treating, do not touch the treatment area with your hands for 48 hours. Also, during this time, do not bathe the dog, or let them go into the water.
Tick control can alternately be done with 5% pyrethin or 8% carbyl dusting solution
Use only in high-tick and flea season. Give your pet a break so they can cleanse their body of the buildup of chemicals and avoid toxicity.
FIBRONIL: You can use this link to visit Amazon. PLEASE NOTE that the same Topical Product for larger dogs is the same price as for smaller dogs – and it has half or less of the product. If AND ONLY IF you are good with chemistry, consider buying the larger dog product and mixing with a bit of canola oil to help preserve it. Store it in the fridge, and use it the following month. Don’t store for over a month, or it may lose effectiveness.
(S) Methoprene: Here is another Amazon Link. Note before you buy that some products will have BOTH Fibronil and Methoprene contained in them for “one treatment” options. Read ingredients carefully.
Tapeworm and Heartworm
30 mg Pyrantel Pamoate (Ivermectin) is used internally to control Tapeworm, Roundworm, Hookworm in a 75 pound dog. Optionally, take with 30 mg Praziquantel. Do not give to puppies under 4 months. Give whenever worms are present in fecal matter, but not more frequently than once a month; or monthly as a preventative.
This is a great review left by a customer on Amazon about flea and tick infestations.
So I’m going to leave a detailed review in hopes I can really help some people out there who are looking to find flea relief without wasting money on high dollar pet flea topical or pill products monthly just to find they dont seem to be working out too great. Due to prices…alot of people don’t seem to consistently use flea products until they start noticing a flea problem. Which is understandable… But by this time…it may already be too late to be able to rely on a pet flea product alone to fix your problem. Which is usually why you wonder “why does my pets flea medicine not seem to be working?!”
First of all….this Product Actually works as it should …but you most likely won’t notice good results unless your home and yard is treated as well, which is something some people don’t tend to realize . Some people just think you give your pet its medicine and everythings good to go and that all fleas disappear. But nope.
This even goes for the most high dollar flea pet application out there. It doesn’t matter what you buy.
Lets start by saying we must Remember…this is not a magic liquid that turns your dogs fur into bug zappers. this won’t keep a flea from hopping on. Sadly..there is no flea medicine that just keeps fleas away the same way bug spray will keep a mosquito away from us humans, but if a flea hops aboard Your pet…the flea will only die as long as it comes in contact physically or by blood ingestion of a lethal amount of the insecticide within the medicine…but won’t just die instantly. It can take several hours or up to 2 days or possibly even longer for the flea to finally kick the bucket, and meanwhile, it’s possible they can still end up laying eggs before they die.
So This is mainly just a preventative measure to prevent a flea infestation if your pet, home, and yard has no current flea problems but somehow your pet comes into contact with a stray hitch hiker Joe Flea….say from a stray cat or dog swinging through the neighborhood , etc.
Now… the insecticide within the medicine itself basically only kills an adult flea. It won’t usually kill a flea egg. But the insect growth regulator, that’s also within the medicine, is capable of penetrating the egg and doing damage, but it’s not a 100% guarantee all the time. Eggs can still tough it out and end up hatching, but luckily if the egg survives….the larvae that hatches from the egg won’t stand a chance with the growth regulator and never be able to mature. That’s if it comes into contact with the growth regulator. Flea eggs don’t attach themselves to pets hair like a lice egg on a human will. Once a flea lays them…the eggs can fall off your pet into the yard or into your carpet or down into couch cushions or small cracks in hardwood flooring…. just about anywhere. The egg may have not even stayed on your pet long enough to get enough contact with the medicine to even try to damage it. Which is why it is important to treat the home and yard as well.
Insecticides alone usually don’t do anything to flea eggs, so for inside the home (besides vacuuming thoroughly daily and washing all bedding and whatnot) use a safe indoor insecticide mixed with a insect growth regulator around the home anywhere you can possible. This will hopefully target any eggs or larvae and prevent them from ever getting into adulthood along with killing any adult fleas that may be running rampant .
Now lets say you haven’t started treatments yet… and you already have larvae that have matured into the next stage of life (when it turns into the pupae stage… which is when it forms its cocoon before hatching into a jumping adult flea) … insecticides nor insect growth regulators will do damage because they can’t penetrate the cocoon of the pupae. Once they get to the pupae stage… basically you have a biting, egg laying adult flea on its way to hatch and there is nothing you can do. Which is why even after doing treatments in the past you may have noticed a couple days later it seemed as though a million fleas came back.
This leads to me say that if you already have fleas and you don’t treat your yard or home…this product will not likely show results on its own in any reasonable manner.
Also, fleas need to have a blood meal in order to lay eggs… but it doesn’t have to be the blood of an animal. They can bite us humans as well. If your pet is treated…. great… but it doesn’t mean any fleas roaming rampant inside your house will encounter your dog first. Of course some will…but others may encounter you first…..and then lay eggs, and of course we don’t wear flea collars or flea medicine, so unless this same flea does happen to encounter your dog or come in contact with treated areas inside your home to get a lethal dose and die before laying its eggs….the next thing you know you got a happy flea who avoided death plus a bunch of babies along the way unless treatments destroy any eggs or larvae before they can mature. So the cycle can become hard to break if you don’t properly treat and clean your home to rid of them.
As far as treating the yard ….in my opinion ….its the biggest thing. Because fleas thrive off of warmth and humidity. But as far as treatment. Use liquid. And obviously this means you have to use a sprayer. But you need a good one that can really saturate through the grass and down to the dirt. Them little small sprayers that people use for weed killing products and whatnot won’t do you much good.
For yard treatment…don’t use bug killing granules that say they kill fleas. They will. But only the adult fleas and do nothing for the other flea lifestyles, so they do no good for fleas. Also, liquid flea branded yard sprays….don’t waste your money. They are garbage. I use Bifen XTS Insecticide. And mix it with Tekko Pro…which is the IGR (insect growth regulator).
Make sure you are consistent with initial treatments. You can do 2 or 3 once a week back to back treatments of this at first to really fight back and then just maintain it routinely once a month and you should find yourself flea free in the yard.. The products I use are a bit more expensive. But its for a reason.
Once you get your yard and home under wraps … then this topical product you apply to your pet will do its job and keep hitch hiker Joe Flea from re infesting your property or your home. And it will save you money compared to buying the high dollar topicals or pills the vet wants to overcharge for.
Hopefully any info I’ve given can be helpful to anyone interested in buying this looking for flea relief that lasts.
You purchased an entire syringe, but that is for a horse. DO NOT give the entire syringe. to your pet. Please read carefully or you could overdose your dog, which will kill it.
The tube contains just over 6 grams. This is 6,080 mg (milligrams) (or 6 million micrograms). This is for a horse that weighs approximately 1,250 pounds (or 570 KG)
The dosage is approximately 0.01 mg per KG. (10 mcg per KG)
100 pounds = 45 KG = 450 mcg = .5 milligrams
The “high” recommended dosage for heartworm prevention for a 50 KG (110 pound dog) is 0.5 grams monthly which gives us 12 doses per tube
For a 50 pound dog, it would be 24 doses per tube
Most of us have smaller dogs, so let’s do our calculations with a 20 pound dog, which gives 60 doses per tube. We will go with dividing the tube contents by 64. The reason for this will appear later.
FRONTLINE INFO – Product per dog weight
10 pound – 5 kg – 0.05 mg = 50 mcg (128 potential doses)
20 pound – 10 kg – 0.10 mg = 100 mcg (64 potential doses)
25 pound – 12 kg – 0.12 mg = 120 mcg (48 potential doses)
50 pound – 23 kg – 0.25 mg = 250 mcg (24 potential doses)
75 pound – 34 kg – 0.30 mg = 300 mcg (20 potential doses)
100 pound – 45 kg – 0.5 mg = 500 mcg (16 potential doses)
125 pound – 57 kg – 0.6 mg = 600 mcg (12 potential doses)
150 pound – 70 kg – 0.7 mg = 700 mcg (8 potential doses)
1,250 pound – 570 kg – 6.08 gm = 6,000 mg = 6,000,000 mcg
REFER TO DOGS BY WEIGHT ABOVE
There…
You might have used this on your dog for many years, and they may never have had heart worm, but then again, they were probably never been hit by a car, or died in a parachuting accident. If you decide to do this, use at your own risk. CHEMICALLY it is fine, but as I said before… PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Peak pest season is June, July, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov. Based on the article below, consider using protective flea and heart worm measures during that period of high heat and high humidity. DISCONTINUE IT outside of those months.
Information from: http://www.vetinfo.com/side-effects-fipronil-frontline-dogs.html
Concerns about Ivermectin
Ivermectin is a medication used to treat parasite infections in animals. It works by interfering with the nervous system of parasites to ultimately paralyze and kill them. Ivermectin is a dewormer used to treat many types of intestinal, lung, and external parasites. It can also be used in heartworm-prevention medications for dogs. Ivermectin comes in several formulations, including injectables, oral solutions, pastes, topicals, pour-ons, chewable tablets, pills, and more.
While ivermectin is prescribed for dogs, toxicity can occur when dogs ingest more ivermectin than they should. This can occur if a dog is administered a dosage that is intended for larger animals, such as horses, or if a dosage for a greater weight/size of dog is inadvertently administered to a smaller dog. In these cases, the excessive ivermectin from overdose begins to interfere with the dog’s own nervous system and can cause life-threatening symptoms, such as seizures and coma, and can even lead to death.
IT IS BETTER TO ERR ON THE SIDE OF CAUTION, GIVING TOO LITTLE, RATHER THAN TOO MUCH. If it is administered on a once-a-month basis, the smaller treatment will do its job.
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Concerns About Fipronil
While the typical side effect to Frontline is skin reactions, its active ingredient, fipronil, lists other potential concerns when used on canines.
Skin problems – As stated earlier, fipronil can cause irritation to your dog’s skin. This irritation can go beyond simple itching as the scratching can cause ulceration and open sores.
Nervous system damage – Fipronil is a neurotoxin, causing damage to the fleas’ nervous system. It can have the same effect on your dog, causing symptoms such as convulsions, body twitches, loss of appetite, unsteady gait and other effects.
Carcinogen – Fipronil has been shown to cause thyroid cancer in dogs. Because of its carcinogenic qualities, it is important for the person applying the Frontline product to thoroughly wash their hands with soap and warm water to adequately remove the product from their skin.
Organ damage – Autopsies have shown an accumulation of fipronil in canine livers and kidneys, causing an increase in organ weight. Fipronil has also been shown to alter the levels of hormone secreted by the thyroid gland.
Infertility – Fipronil has also been shown to have an effect on a dog’s fertility. Its use has led to smaller litter size, difficulty in conception, decreased litter weights and increase in litter deaths.
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While Frontline products have had successful use in the control of flea populations, there have been negative results seen when dogs have been maintained for extended periods on the products. The fipronil builds up in your dog’s body, giving it the chance to cause problems. If Frontline is your choice for flea control, consider taking a 3 to 6 month break during low flea infestation periods (December through May) to allow your dog’s body to rid itself of any toxic build up that may have occurred. This will help to avoid the potential of any problems arising from the fipronil.
Grandpa’s musings only… not medical or veterinary advice, nor something that I intend to do… Technically it’s illegal to do this, so I would never . . .
Read the text about Ivermectin Toxicity in dogs before proceeding.
InverCare for horses is 1.87 % Invermectin paste. The box says that it is good for treatment of horses up to 1,500 pounds. I have a dilution table showing how you MIGHT divvy up the tube. Use the dropdown instructions that match the approximate weight of your dog
HORSE
DOG
Whole tube is for a horse
1,500 pounds – already infected
Use 1/4 of the tube and throw the rest in the trash. Then mix it with peanut butter
Heaven help you if your dog is as big as a horse. I am including instructions for 150 pounds, 100 pounds, 65 pounds, 50, 25, and 10 pound dogs.
PLEASE NOTE: Make damn sure your peanut butter does not contain xylitol, which is EXTREMELY TOXIC to dogs.
10 pound – 5 kg – 0.05 mg = 50 mcg (128 potential doses)
20 pound – 10 kg – 0.10 mg = 100 mcg (64 potential doses)
25 pound – 12 kg – 0.12 mg = 120 mcg (48 potential doses)
50 pound – 23 kg – 0.25 mg = 250 mcg (24 potential doses)
75 pound – 34 kg – 0.30 mg = 300 mcg (20 potential doses)
100 pound – 45 kg – 0.5 mg = 500 mcg (16 potential doses)
125 pound – 57 kg – 0.6 mg = 600 mcg (12 potential doses)
150 pound – 70 kg – 0.7 mg = 700 mcg (8 potential doses)
1,250 pound – 570 kg – 6.08 gm = 6,000 mg = 6,000,000 mcg
REFER TO DOGS BY WEIGHT ABOVE
We will end up discarding some of the Ivermectin, because the medicine has a shelf life of two years. Refrigerate it between seasons. After two years, you will want to discard the medicine, and buy more. Enough is enough. How much of a cheapskate are you?!?
When you are done, you will give your dog one dose at the beginning of each month starting in June, and ending in November. DO NOT give any medicine in December through May. Resume again in June.
You will need 8 doses out of the tube
Put the tube out onto parchment paper and mix with an equal (or more) amount of peanut butter – One Dose
Scrape into a long tube or or snake or stream – whatever you want to call it.
Cut the resulting stream of Ivermectin in half – Two Doses
Cut both halves in half again – Four Doses
Cut each of the four snakes in half again – Eight Doses
Wrap each separate dose in waxed paper, and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
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You will need 16 doses out of the tube
Put the tube out onto parchment paper and mix with an equal (or more) amount of peanut butter – One Dose
Scrape into a long tube or or snake or stream – whatever you want to call it.
Cut the resulting stream of Ivermectin in half – Two Doses
Cut both halves in half again – Four Doses
Cut each of the four snakes in half again – Eight Doses
Cut each of the eight snakes in half again – Sixteen Doses
Wrap each separate dose in waxed paper, and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
DO NOT USE FOR MORE THAN TWO YEARS
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You will get 24 doses out of the tube, however, since the shelf life is only 2 years or so (we can squeak by to three years if if you really need to) and you only give it for six consecutive months, we will end up discarding some of the Ivermectin. You only need 18 doses over a three year period.
Put the tube out onto parchment paper and mix with an equal (or more) amount of peanut butter – One Dose – The reason we mix it with PB first is to make it more precise to divide.
Scrape into a long tube or or snake or stream – whatever you want to call it.
Cut the resulting stream of Ivermectin in half – Two Snakes
Cut both halves in half again – Four Snakes
Discard one of your Four Snakes – Three Snakes remining
Cut each of the remaining three snakes in half again – Six Snakes
Cut each of the six snakes in THREE SEGMENTS – Eighteen Snakes
Wrap each separate dose in waxed paper, and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
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Put the entire tube out onto parchment paper and cut the snake in half. (2 Snakes)
Discard one of the snakes or pass them it to another dog owner with a link to this web page – better yet, mix it for them.
You now have one Snakes again, which is 24 doses
Combine your remaining snake with an equal (or more) amount of peanut butter – This is enough for 24 doses. We will only need 18 to treat for three years, so we will be discarding another snake soon.
Scrape into a long tube or or Snakes or stream – whatever you want to call it.
Cut the resulting Snakes of Ivermectin / PB in half – Two Snakes of 12 doses each
Cut both halves in half again – Four Snakes of six doses each
Discard one of the Snakes
You will now have three Snakes with a total of 18 doses – 6 doses per Snake
Cut each snake in half again – 3 doses per Snake
Cut remaining snakes in thirds – 18 doses total
Wrap each separate dose in waxed paper, and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
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If you have a little yapper dog, you will get 128 doses out of the tube, however, since the shelf life is only 2 years or so and you only give it for six consecutive months, we will end up discarding most of the Ivermectin. You only need 12 doses. Alternately, you can give it to friends on April 27, which is National Little Pampered Dog Day. Yes really!
Put the entire tube out onto parchment paper and cut the snake in half.
Cut both snakes in half again. You now have four snakes.
Cut them in half again. You now have eight snakes. Each snake contains 16 doses, so either discard SEVEN of the snakes or pass them on to other dog owner with a link to this web page.
This leaves you with one snake that is good for 16 doses. Mix your remaining snake with twice as much peanut butter – One Snake
We are going to vary a bit from the percentages because little dogs are more fragile. Let’s target for 18 doses.
Cut your snake in thirds.
You will now have three Snakes with a total of 18 doses – 6 doses per Snake
Cut each snake in half again – 3 doses per Snake
Cut remaining snakes in thirds – 18 doses total
Wrap each separate dose in waxed paper, and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
You might be better off buying Heart Guard at the pet store, unless you like chemistry.
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If you are really good at Chemistry, this might be something you can try. If you pretty much majored in gym and bong usage, you might want to skip this process. An easy mistake could kill your dog.
